Running on empty

Firstly I must apologise for my lack of communication during October. I should probably have posted whatever the blog equivalent of an “out of office” auto-reply is before I went gallivanting off on my adventures.

October was a HUGE month of adventure. I’m talking outdoor adventures here, Tanzanian and Kenyan; adventures on a grand scale... including returning home to Moshi an engaged woman!

That, however, is a tale that shall have to come later. My first grand adventure for October was trekking Mount Kilimanjaro, at 5,895m the highest mountain in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain in the world.

Those of you who know me will already be sighing... AGAIN. I should explain. I first summitted Kili in 2007, for fun and adventure. I summitted again in June 2009 & June 2010 for my job leading trekking groups. So why on earth would I want to clamber up the same giant volcano AGAIN???

All previous treks had been via the same route, Machame, which traverses the southern flank of Kibo (Kili’s main peak). I’d been carrying just a daypack, supported by porters carrying my large gear bag, as is the usual style for trekking Kili (& many other mountainous regions of the world).

This time I wanted to see a completely different side of the mountain, so I chose Rongai Route, approaching from the north-east side. More significantly, I wanted Kili to challenge me, to really push my boundaries. And so I chose a guide I knew and trusted, and who knew I was capable of carrying a load as large as my porters carried. And I chose to explore and sleep overnight in Kili’s summit crater, something very few people have the privilege to experience.

By carrying all my own gear and a bit of group food, and only using two tents between us, we were able to reduce the usual number of porters from three to two (plus cook & guide = crew of 4). This doesn’t sound significant, but it’s startlingly unusual enough that I became a source of gossip across the mountain.

I’d been looking forward to getting away from the stares of Moshi, the constant calls of “Mzungu” (foreigner), of being a minority, of standing out from the crowd. On the mountain, I’d assumed, I’d just blend in with the hundreds of other wazungu. Wrong! From the company’s office staff to the Park Rangers, everyone queried – “just TWO porters”? In response, the Rangers were told by my guide “Look at her pack.” And everywhere I went with my large pack on, eyes followed.

The peanut gallery stares, however, became much more goggle-eyed, & mouths hung agape whenever we set up camp & it became evident to my local audience that I was sharing a tent with my guide. Oh my goodness! Many assumed he’d brought his wife to trek the mountain. The rest just assumed we were... well, you know. Apparently it is just inconceivable in the local psyche that my guide could possibly be sharing a tent with a mzungu woman platonically. Samuel found the entire situation hilarious, and it created much animated conversation & shared laughter between us.

DAY 1: Nalemoru Gate – Simba Camp

A slow start to a trek, as the first day involves more driving than walking. We first had to drive to Marangu Gate (actually our descent route) to pay park fees, before following the mountain-base contours around to the Kenyan side. I lunched at Nalemoru Gate (~2000m altitude) while my crew made final departure preparations. The afternoon’s walk was less than three hours, and a far cry from the lush rainforest environment of the southern side of Kili.

Locals head for the village banana market

For almost an hour we passed through pine plantation forest, interspersed with pockets of maize fields. This is the dry side of the mountain, so it was a hot, dusty, sweaty afternoon. The start of the natural forest marked our entry into the National Park itself. The forest band is narrow on this side; in little more than an hour the vegetation is already changing to the lower bush of the heathers.

We reached Simba Camp (2650m) in plenty of time for my hot chocolate & popcorn, followed by an afternoon stroll. I headed a couple of hundred metres higher, as I knew this trip I was really heading too high, too fast, so I was keen to do everything I could to aid my acclimatisation.

DAY 2: Simba Camp – Third Cave Camp

Unlike the hoo-hah of a dining tent, folding chairs & tables that accompany larger expeditions, I had a simple kitenge cloth laid out as a tablecloth to dine at, picnic style. Dinners were in-tent, as it was generally too dark & cold for outdoor dining by that time of day. Breakfasts though, were enjoyed in the brisk morning air & life-enhancing glow of the morning sun.

Morning view of Kibo from Simba Camp

I had a spectacular view of both Kibo & Mawenzi (Kili’s secondary peak) this morning, before hints of cloud crept in. It was strange seeing them “in reverse” – Kibo right, Mawenzi left. I chucked my pack on the porter’s scales this morning – a respectable 21kg.

As with yesterday, the trail moved steadily upwards. Rongai is a steady ascent route, lacking the more dramatic undulations of Machame. The vegetation continued to decrease in size, moving well into the mooreland zone. Shortly before lunch Samuel & I had fun monkey-ing around in the natural “skylight” of First Cave.

Lunch at Second Cave (3450m) was a social affair, as all groups stopped there. One of the benefits of solo-trekking is the socialising with other groups, who seemed intrigued by & happy to talk with me. Another was the pleasure of walking for an hour, or two, without a break if I chose to; a pleasure not generally afforded in groups.

Third Cave (3875m) was our cloudy, rainy camp. I spent some time between the rain showers pottering around in a dry river bed playing with my camera. Life got more social, catching up with William, another guide I’d previously worked with, who expressed complete bewilderment that anyone who worked on the mountain would return to trek it “for fun”. The sky cleared by evening & the night sky, with an all-but-full moon, was spectacular.

DAY 3: Third Cave Camp – Kibo Huts

It was just a morning’s walk from camp to camp today, although we gained over 800m in a long, steady ascent. I had some fun at morning tea, clambering up on a massive rocky outcrop, from where I had a fantastic view across The Saddle towards Mawenzi. I could clearly see all the trails traversing The Saddle, and the little ant dots of the trekkers upon them.

Great view from up top but unfortunately camera at bottom

Kibo Huts (4713m) was a busy place, being a junction for the ascent-descent Marangu Route, as well as being joined by the Rongai Route trekkers. I developed a mild headache today, first AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness - caused by altitude) symptom, but it abated during the evening. Life got even more social, as there were two more Tropical Trails groups in camp, about to descend. I popped downhill for a social catch-up with several guides & cooks I knew: Ramsom, Justaz, Godbless, Amos.

In the afternoon I headed off on my own, traversing the mountain until Barafu (the high camp on Machame Route) was visible in the distance. Midway between the two camps I found perfect solitude & blissful silence. Its places like these that I have “thin moments”, connecting with God naturally.

I was feeling the effects of carrying a full pack today. The first two days were a doddle, but I could definitely feel my body working harder with the increasing altitude today. Appetite affected at dinner – definitely decreased.

DAY 4: Kibo Huts – Uhuru Peak (summit) – Summit Crater Camp

I experienced the novelty of a daytime summit ascent today. Being able to see all the tiny little dots of people descending the impossibly steep looking slope post-summitting, and able to see exactly how steep and high I had to go, I understood the wisdom of a night-time ascent, when your world is reduced to the cone of your headlight & it’s easy to fall into a zone where you lose hours of time. I suspect many more people would give up with a daytime ascent.

Despite nausea allowing only minimal breakfast consumption, I started out strongly, and was still smiling at William’s Point, marking 5000m. From there onwards Kili started becoming the challenge I’d been searching for. Nausea became unrelenting, & I employed every physical and mental technique I knew to tackle the task ahead. My pace became slower and slower (but steady), my steps shorter and shorter; a full breath in & out for every step. Breaks became more frequent. [A benefit of daytime ascending is being able to stop for breaks without starting to freeze to the core.]

For some obscure reason I announced to Samuel, a couple of hundred metres short of attaining the crater rim at Gilman’s Point, that I had to eat an apple. Right then! So I did. Samuel is a patient man.

Reaching Gilman’s Point (5681m) after 5.25 hours was a great relief. From there it was a mere 1.5 hours to the summit, and once we’d passed Stella Point I was on familiar trail to Uhuru Peak. Basically not having eaten all day though, I was having to digging deep for final energy reserves.

Following the crater rim from Gilman's Point to the summit (far background)

I arrived at Uhuru Peak in spectacular style, unexpectedly vomiting everywhere. Well, that’s something else that’ll make this summit stand out from the others!

After photos, we continued a short distance further around the crater rim to our descent point into the crater. Think of a sand-dune with the steepness of a black ski run & you’ll have an idea of our descent route. And descending down a steep scree slope feels much like a moon-walking equivalent of skiing.

Look very carefully just near the shadow & you'll see tents!

Crater Camp, at 5729m is by far and away the highest altitude at which I’ve ever slept. There was only one other group besides ours. It is a stark, moonscape campsite. The entire summit was snow-less, so the glaciers rising in blocks from the volcanic dust looked startling and entirely impossible.

My AMS nausea was unrelenting, so dinner was virtually impossible. My crew weren’t feeling great either, which gave me a small measure of comfort, side-by-side with guilt for being the cause of their discomfort.

DAY 5: Summit Crater Camp – Kibo Huts – Horombo Huts

Samuel & I rose at 6:30am for our “stroll” up to the Reusch Crater rim to gaze down upon the Ash Pit. I say “stroll” in inverted comas, for although I was packless, as soon as the terrain was the slightest bit uphill I was toddling like an old lady with my trekking poles.

It was worth the effort though. From the rim, we could smell the sulphur and see the puffs of smoke emanating from the fumaroles; evidence indeed that Kilimanjaro is merely dormant, not extinct. And centre-stage, the Ash Pit - at 360m across & 120m deep, said to be one of the largest and most perfect examples of its kind in the world.

We could’ve descended right into the Reusch Crater but, mindful of my low energy reserves & the long day still ahead, I contented myself with playing around on the Furtwangler Glacier on the way back to camp for a breakfast I couldn’t eat.

Post-phantom-breakfast we donned packs and headed across the floor to exit the crater at Stella Point. Throughout the morning I could hear the cheers and whistles of the excited little ants on the summit nearly 200m above us – a strange perspective on it. I wondered whether any of them gazing into the crater might be curious about the little ants they saw down there & decided, caught up in their own euphoria, probably not.

From Stella we retraced our previous day’s route back to Kibo Huts for another unconsumable lunch (not inedible, my cook Maulid was fantastic). The cloud was well & truly in by then. Indeed, just after we’d set out across The Saddle in the afternoon, it began to snow. Fantastic! Walking in the snow is a much greater joy than walking in rain. And it transforms the landscape, the very air, the world.

Zebra Rocks

Shortly before Horombo, and just as the snow ceased, we digressed to check out the spectacular Zebra Rocks. From there it was a pleasant walk down a giant tree groundsel-studded grassy valley to Horombo Huts (3719m).

Still nauseated, and by then stomach-cramping, I took more drugs, crawled into my sleeping bag & prayed for oblivion. I woke briefly hours later, greatly relieved my symptoms had finally subsided.

DAY 6: Horombo Huts – Marangu Gate

A lovely sunny morning, with Kibo & Mawenzi both looking gorgeous in their new mantles of snow. Today Kili had one final challenge to throw at me; or rather, Samuel did. Thankfully I finally managed a tiny breakfast, as I needed all the energy I could muster. My extremely popular guide needed to get back to Moshi for a group briefing in the afternoon, so we were on a mission to get to Marangu Gate (1860m) as quickly as we could. I told him it was lucky I liked a challenge, or I’d have told him “No way, I’m going pole pole (slowly).”

After a pre-departure tipping ceremony & photos with “my guys", we headed off on the long, undulating traverse to Mandara Huts. I had an ever-changing perspective on Mawenzi, and delightful views down over the African plains. Just prior to Mandara, we digressed to check out a mini-volcanic crater. We descended through the heath zone & the (much broader on this side) forest zone, where I reacquainted myself with my favourite flower, Impatiens Kilimanjari, found NOWHERE else in the world other than on this mountain.

Whilst still stopping for plenty of photos, I put my mind in Trailwalker (a 100km team walking endurance event) mode, and we managed to cover the 20.4km distance in 5 hours, 10 minutes. Not bad with a full pack, and running on empty...

On arrival at Marangu Gate, asked in Kiswahili how my trip was, I summed it up: “Nzuri sana lakini nimechoka kabisa.” (Fantastic, but I’m absolutely tired). Maulid told me I’d been strong up there, especially in the crater – an immense compliment. I was pleased to have held my own, and that Samuel knew me well enough not to offer to reduce my load even when I was “doing it tough”. The emotion hit when I spoke to my first friend & the enormity of the challenge I’d successfully tackled began to sink in. Wow! What a trek!

I was hobbling like a bibi mzee (old grandmother) for the next couple of days. Bodies repair quickly though, and memories last a lifetime. Challenges faced and overcome leave their own indelible mark too; on your body, mind, spirit, character. All become stronger, and much is learnt about “self”. I am reminded of one of my favourite quotes:

"Each of us should have his or her own Everest - a testing place in any endeavour where the goal is almost, but not quite, beyond reach.  When you take on a great challenge and persevere, you discover that your abilities are more than you ever imagined, enabling you at times to accomplish the "impossible."  A life lived in this way is infinitely fulfilling." Dr Kenneth Kamler